Cleaning tack with Neatsfoot oil. How?

friedegund

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Oct 22, 2004
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Hello,

I just today managed to round up my two saddles, both of which have both of which have not been cleaned in many years. I planned to use one on Sat in my lessons, but the leather was so stiff my Instructor told me to take it home and clean it with Neatsfoot oil.

Not wanting to sound like the airhead I have of come to relaize I am,I nodded my head in agreement, ran out and purchased a bottle of Neatsfoot oil, anticipating detailed instructions on the labels back.

I mean, everything has instructions, right? They put instructions on shampoo bottles for cripes sakes, and how obvious is shampooing???? So, instead of ASKING how and what Neatsfoot oil is and how it is applied, I decided to wing it, and educate myself by reading the bottle WHICH HAS NO DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS. None. Nada. I have been squinting at the bottle for 20 minutes now, willing the instruction to appear. Still no instructions, and I believe I have developed a twitch in my right eye.

So, then I think, ok, good old google search. Well, I now believe there is a conspiracy, as every mention of cleaning tack I have come across says "Apply Neatsfoot oil" That's it. It's as if I am the only human in the universe not born with the instinctive knowledge of Neatsfoot oil application. So......please, someone, take mercy on me. PLEASE share the Secret Code of Neatsfoot Application with me!

Do I just rub it on direct from the bottle? Do I mix it with water? Do I spray it on????? What!!!!! WHAT????? I am now beginning to remember just why I have not cleaned my tack in 20 years, damn secret codes. :eek:
 
get a dry sponge, and use it reasonably liberally on the underside and very sparingly on the top, if at all. be sure to really rub it in and make sure you don't leave tidemarks - that's why you need to be sparing on the smooth surface on top, as it may leave oilstains.

as you do it, flex and bend the leather where you can (like on the flaps and girth straps) so it really sinks in and the leather softens again. if you treat new tack with it before use, you can bend it and rub it between your hands until it goes floppy and soft. (sorry, i can never think of a less double entendre way of describing that.)

i use it after the tack has gotten wet, as soon as it's reasonably dry - stops it going mouldy afterwards.
 
humm, I was sure my Neatsfoot had instructions but, on further inspection, it doesn't. Oh well.

Right, it's really easy. First, clean the leather (really well -see below) then let it dry. Then apply the neatsfoot with whatever cloth/towel/ sponge you've got.

Just straight from the can, no water/diluting etc. It's just a really thick oil. Rub it into the leather, wait for it to sink in (if the leatherss really dry and old, it'll only take seconds), then apply some more on. Keep applying the neatsfoot oil until it doesn't absord it quickly, then leave the leather. Re-apply another layer the next day. If it soaks it in asap, put another layer on. Manipulating the leather (gentle bending etc) helps as it supples up the leather.

It's really important the leather is clean before put the neatsfoot oil on - it's not for cleaning the tack, only for suppling/waterproofing it. There's lots of people who say neatsfoot rots stitching, but mine specifically says on the tin that it doesn't so I wouldn't worry about it.

RE cleaning the tack - the traditional way is to use saddle soap - a damp sponge and some saddle soap (if it bubbles up, the sponge is too wet) and scrub, scrub, scrub. MY way (which is easier, but not Pony club!) is to dunk the leather in a tub of warm soapy (washing up liquid) water, then use the saddle soap the clean it. The leather has to dryed off gentle afterwards (no radiators!), but it's never done my tack any harm.

If the leather is really greasy, use neat washing-up liquid to get it off, then clean again with saddle soap. Don't leave a layer of saddle soap on the leather - it it's slimy afterwards, you need to rub it off before using the neatsfoot.

I really like cleaning bridles - I find it theraputic - but i HATE cleaning saddles. Which is why all my tack is synthetic! it is very satisfying when the leather's all supple and shiny though :D
 
Yup, I use a soft paintbrush as well. I pour a little oil into a dish and paint it on thinly, beginning with the underside of the saddle, then under the flaps, then the top. If it absorbs quickly, you can paint on another layer (and so on), but it's better to do several thin layers than to try to paint it on thickly, when it may run or come out unevenly.

As others have said, be sure to clean the tack thoroughly first. The oil is intended to protect it, not clean it. Any dirt or film will inhibit the absorption of the oil, while the oil can make it harder to get the dirt off later.
 
Thank you for that, I was wondering about that a few days ago. Also, how often do you oil your tack, if it's in reasonable condition?

I'm the exact opposite of you Pinks lady, I hate cleaning bridles, too many buckles to undo, but I don't mind cleaning saddles at all.
 
I was advised to apply neatsfoot oil to new tack then use about once a year. Put some oil in the bottom of an old bucket, warm it up by putting the bucket into warm water. When the neatsfoot oil has warmed up and gone really runny put your bridle into the oil, make sure all pieces are covered and then leave to soak for a few hours. Clean off extra oil. This made the leather very soft but be careful to clean it after otherwise it will get too slippery.
 
You don't want to oil too frequently, as over-oiling can ruin tack. Once a year is good. In between, clean the tack as often as you reasonably can (ideally, at least wiping down after every ride and applying saddle soap regularly).
 
I was told that too much oil, especially on high-tension areas such as girth points and stirrup leathers, encourages stretching & will ruin the leather. Was also told that oiling some saddles with warp them, and they should only be conditioned.

I rub oil on with a cloth to both sides of the leather(never thought about tide marks, but haven't left any yet), but fairly thinly. More on the fuzzy side as it soaks better on that side. Bridles get more than stirrup leathers & girth points. I let it soak in, then come back about half hour later and do again. After the second coat has soaked in, I use a leather conditioner, which I apply with a different cloth, only to the shiney side. Can't remember what it does, but the girl at store had OH mesmerised into buying all sorts of things that day. She came up with some pretty reasonable reasons why we *had* to have this stuff. We listened because we didn't know leather had to be oiled before use, and a stirrup leather was cut pretty quickly by the stirrup because of it.

She also said that soaking your leather in buckets of oil was a very quick was to get stretched 'old' leather and reduce the life-span. On the other hand, sometimes a good splash of oil is the only way to get some leather soft!
 
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