Urgent!!!....

FineFilly-x

New Member
Aug 7, 2009
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Poole, Dorset
Hey all! Have just been told at my new yard we have to do the electric fencing ourselves! Ive never done this before :confused::eek: What will be needed? Its for a 16hh Irish Tb, Fairly good doer, Will be out 24/7, Anybody also know of good places to buy the bits, preferably that will deliver, Thanks NR :D x
 
Tape, post, battery and "a thingy", gate handle. (sorry, the name escapes me).

You can buy "kits" although these usually don't include a battery. There are a good couple of places on ebay, and also farmcare UK, who I use a lot for all my lecy tape stuff and they are reasonable and do fast delivery. They also have some advise on thier website.
 
Some photos for you (hope you don't mind)

The handle - I made myself.
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The conection.
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The 2 strands of wire(not sure how many lines you will have)
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The clips on the fence poll.
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The battery.
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How the wire is conected.
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Thank you very much for those pictures- Very helpful! The plastic push in the floor posts, everything as cheap as poss! Its in a big field with a gate etc, horses each have a sectioned paddock with electric fencing though x
 
12volt battrey we use, you can get them from any car place.

Pulsa is around £75
Wire is £12 a roll
Black clips £5.00
Plastic fence polls are £15.00 for pack of 10.

The link I sent you, by speedgate, they sell everything you need, the plastic fence polls are on offer at the moment.
 
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Can you all post links to good kits that will cover the area i need (enough for a 16hh irish TB, good doer) Reasonably good prices and that will deliver please. As said above ^ this was unexpected :eek: x
 
I like this place for leccy fencing too as it's nice and cheap :)

http://www.farmcareuk.com/?section=shop&action=cat&c=1&pc=1

You need an energiser, battery, plastic posts (if your mare is anything like mine then go for the tallest ones you can afford), tape and 2 gate handles. I always got for gate handles so that you don't have to switch off your eletric to get the horse in and out.

Go for the best energiser you can afford. Mine on its own was nearly £120 and is one for cattle that does up 15 km of fencing but then my 2 fatty natives don't respect tape unless it has enough of a kick to make them think - they wouldn't even notice the pulse sent through by my neighbours energiser and battery :rolleyes: There are 3 clips on the energiser a red and black one that clip onto the battery and then another one to clip on the electric tape. The energiser will either come with an earthing rod or you'll need to pop your own on. Make sure this is pushed deep into the ground and that the connection are tight. I once couldn't understand why my fence wasn't working very well and changing the battery didn't help. Turned out the earth connection was loose.

I like the 22mm tape the best. The 40mm blows in the wind a lot which bent the posts. Talking of posts, I've giving up on the cheapy ones. My grond has stones just under the surface and so the spikes can get easilly bent, aslo the cheap ones become brittle in no time so when moving them about bits can snap off.

Remember to be most efficient on your battery mustn't have the tape touching anything it can earth out on so have a plastic post next to the wooden post (I tie mine to the wooden one with bailing twine making sure the leccy tape won't touch the twine). I have 2 strands running along the posts to make sure they don't try the limbo trick although the lady in the field next to mine manages with one strand the lucky thing!

Where you want your gate to be make 2 loops in the tape for the gate to hook over to keep the current going continously through the whole fence.

As for distance, I tend to have my 4ft posts spaced about 8ft apart, no more than that or the wind gets it. Rather than just running the fence through the runners on the posts I wrap it once round each post to keep it in place. Because of this I find it easier to do the bottom strand first.

The tape must run in a continuous loop but you can join the tape by tying it in a knot. No need for those fancy jointing plates ;)
 
I use two strands and also found it easier to use wooden posts bashed in with a pole basher thing and then to put insulators on that and run the tape through. I found it needs less maintenance this way and hardly ever needs replacing, just the odd tensioning. I found plastic posts and tape didn't last long through winters without needing to be realigned or re-put up which takes ages. (I do have 6 acres though)

It is important to walk round the field once a month or so and clip back any foliage that is touching the line otherwise it won't be as effective.

I use ebay for most of mine, particularly paddock perfection and countrystores. I get my posts from a local agricultural store and the post rammer was about £35 delivered from a on-line shop I googled.

In pic below...at the front is some temporary fencing (polyposts) and in the background you can see my electric fence with wooden posts which has been up about a year now.

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my permanent post and electric tape fence (this is 40mm tape but 20mm tape is better)

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Yes, the wooden posts do look a lot better and more efficient, however, i dont think she would allow this, as the plastic poles are easily removed and more temporary! Do you think i should ask? x
 
Yes, the wooden posts do look a lot better and more efficient, however, i dont think she would allow this, as the plastic poles are easily removed and more temporary! Do you think i should ask? x

I was going to say the same thing.

The 5 acres I rent is done into 3 paddock with wooden posts and leccy tape but the trouble is that it cost me more to have harrowed and roll because it takes longer for my friendly farmer to do it is more time consuming.

My other 4 acre field I have permanatly divided between summer and winter sides with plastic posts (the good ones) and that's coming up to 2 years now. I don't move that but any other fencing I do move about. Wood looks better for semi permanant fencing (and you could have offset insulators on each side of the post is you need to keep neighbours in ajoining padocks from getting too close) but I'm not going to do that with this field.
 
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